Marco's Travel Tips: Rio de Janeiro

Orla Hotel, Copacabana Beach

Lodging

Most of the hotel options in Rio de Janeiro are located in the southern part of the city, most notably the neighborhoods of Copacabana, and Ipanema/Leblon.

We chose to stay at the Orla Hotel, which was located at the southern end of Copacabana beach. Our hotel room was very simply furnished and the lobby and restaurant were, in my terms, "passable boutique." On the top (10th) floor of the hotel, there was a rooftop deck and pool (postage stamp size), small gym, and phenomenal views of Copacabana Beach. The front desk staff spoke English and was very efficient. A buffet breakfast was served each morning and consisted of a variety of pastries, meats, cheeses, breads, and fruit. Located directly across the street from the beach, the hotel provided towels to it's guests upon request.

From what I could tell, the quality of hotels in the city varied widely, from opulent (Copacabana Palace Hotel) to downright rundown. You definitely need to do your research in advance. The area around Ipanema seemed quieter, cleaner, and perhaps safer than Copacabana. Compared to Copacabana, Ipanema appeared to have more restaurants and shops within walking distance of the hotel choices. (I probably would opt to stay in Ipanema on my next visit to Rio de Janeiro.)

Favela Chickens for Sale

Dining

Please make sure you read my blog entry titled "Dinner at Restaurant Aprazível" for detailed information about one of Rio de Janeiro's most unique dining experiences.

One night we dined at the Brazilian steakhouse Porcão, one of the top-rated, most popular churrascaria's in the city. Porcão has multiple locations throughout Rio. We ate at their Ipanema location; their location in Flamengo with views of Sugar Loaf Mountain is probably ther best known outpost. This is definitely NOT the restaurant to come to if you are vegetarian. This all-you-can-eat feast will set you back about 70 Reals (US$40). While we certainly got our money's worth and enjoyed the food, we left somewhat dissatisfied as we found most of the meat to be too salty for our palate.

Upon leaving Porcão, we felt the need to cleanse our system and get some Brazilian ice cream. Luckily for us, one of Rio's best known ice cream shops was just a short walk away. Located in Ipanema on Rua Garcia D'Ávila (next door to Rio's only Louis Vuitton store), Mil Frutas serves tasty ice cream that showcases fruits from the Amazon and abroad. Jaca (jackfruit), lychee and açaí are among the several dozen varieties - all of which are best enjoyed on the tiny shade-covered patio out front.

For lunch, we found ourselves eating along the Avenida Atlantica in Copacabana. Many of these restaurants have menus that are interchangeable: pizza, fish, pasta, chicken, etc. We dined at two establishments: Rondinella and Restaurante Pigalle. Rondinella is located a few blocks away from the Copacabana Palace Hotel and has great views of the beach from the outdoor dining area. The food here was decent (we had sandwiches and pizza) but not particularly memorable. The other place we ate at, Restaurante Pigalle, was located a block away from our hotel, just across from the Forte Copacabana. The food here was (I think) better than Rondinella, perhaps because we started our lunch off with a caipirinha, the national cocktail of Brazil. I highly recommend trying one when you are here.

Soaking Up the Sun on Copacabana Beach

Things to Do

No visit to Rio is complete without going to one of their famed beaches, notably Copacabana or Ipanema. There are a couple of things to note about going to the beach in Rio de Janeiro. First of all, the sun is very strong here. Plus it is hot and humid. (Note: drink plenty of water!) These facts explain why most Cariocas (both men and women) wear very little to the beach, no matter their body type. At the beach, you will see vendors renting chairs and sun umbrellas. There are also changing stations located near the beach as well as outdoor showers to get the sand off of your body. While we did not encounter any theft while on our trip to Rio, we were told that robberies are quite common on the beach...you should only bring what you need and leave your valuables locked up in your hotel's safe.

Beach Shower

Besides the beach, there are enough sights around Rio de Janeiro to keep the average tourist busy for a good week or so. The two most popular attractions are Sugar Loaf Mountain and Corcovado. Both are easily accessible and an organized tour is not necessary to appreciate the beauty of both attractions. What you do beyond these two sights will depend on your interests and how much time you have to spend. There are a number of museums, beaches, shopping, gardens, and activities to satisfy every one's taste. My recommendation to you would be to not plan to do too much in a day...pick one or two things to do each day and leisurely enjoy your visit.

Corcovado and Cristo Redentor

Miscellanies on Rio

Brazilian Spirit

I saw this bumper sticker on a car parked at Copacabana Beach.

Brazilian Bumper Sticker



Catedral de São Sebastião do Rio de Janeiro

The Cathedral of Rio de Janeiro, the seat of the archbishop, is dedicated to Saint Sebastian, the patron saint of Rio de Janeiro. The current church was built by Edgar de Oliveira da Fonseca between 1964 and 1979 and replaced a series of old churches that had served as cathedrals since 1676. Located downtown, the Cathedral is conical in form, has an internal diameter of 315 feet and reaches a height of 246 ft. It can seat 5,000 people and has a standing-room capacity of 20,000 people. The cathedral's four stain glass windows soar 210 feet from floor to ceiling.

The Catherdral as seen from Sugar Loaf


The Imposing Facade of the Cathedral

Looking Up to the Ceiling of the Cathedral

Theatro Municipal

Rio de Janeiro's Municipal Theatre, built in 1905, was modeled after the Paris Opera House.

The Theatre in the Rain



Niterói

From the top of Sugar Loaf Mountain, you can look across the Guanabara Bay and see the suburban city of Niterói, home to the Museu de Arte Contemporanea de Niterói, a museum in the shape of a spheroid.

The View of Niterói from Sugar Loaf



Oi, Vey!

Thoughout Rio de Janeiro, you can still find pay phones.

Oi! Rio Telefonico

Artistic Rio

Here are some more pictures from our Favela Tour.

The Angel at the Catholic Church

Wavy Steps

Favela Street Sign

Recycle those Magazines!

Back at the Beach

Here are some more photos from Copacabana Beach.

Copacabana in Black and White

Cruise Ship Departing Rio

Forte de Copacabana

View of Copacabana Beach from the Orla Hotel Rooftop Deck

Copacabana Fishermen

Beach Vendors

Dental Floss Bikinis

The Beach from Overhead



Wish You Were Here!

Springtime in Rio

As it was late spring during our visit, we had a chance to see some beautiful flowers in Rio de Janeiro. Here are some shots that I took.

The Beautiful Flowers of Rio

Save the Date: August 5, 2016

Everywhere you look, you can tell that Rio is getting geared up for the 2016 Summer Olympics. The first sign that I saw was at the airport. It sure will be one helluva party! Book your tickets now.

Rio Gets Ready for the 2016 Olympics

Corcovado on the Morning of Our Depature

Go figure! Just our luck! As our driver was taking us to the airport to depart Rio de Janeiro for our flight to Iguazu Falls, the skies cleared up and we were able to get a clear view of Cristo Redentor.

Clear Skies!

Bittersweet Sugar Loaf

Rio de Janeiro is a city known for its magnificent views and one of the most dazzling is surely the one from the top of Pão de Açúcar (Sugar Loaf Mountain). Rising to a height of 1,299 feet, this quartz and granite monolith sits at the mouth of Guanabara Bay.

The Cable Car Station in Urca


The name of Sugar Loaf, which was adopted in the 19th century, is believed to have been derived from the rock's shape, which resembles the conical molds that once were used to refine sugar. The mountain is only one of several morros that rise straight from the water's edge around Rio de Janeiro.

Cable Car to Morro da Urca


A glass-paneled cable car, capable of holding 75 passengers, runs along a 1400-meter route from the suburb of Urca to the peak of Pão de Açúcar via Morro da Urca. The original cable car line was built in 1912 and rebuilt around 1972/1973 in its current form. The mountain may be best known for its memorable scene in the 1979 James Bond flick, Moonraker, in which the villainous henchman "Jaws" attempts to kill 007 on the cable car. Sugar Loaf is a must see when you visit Rio.

The View of Rio de Janeiro from Morro da Urca








However, it is strongly recommended that you plan to visit around sunset on a clear day. Avoid cloudy days at all costs, as we quickly learned. Again, like our tour to Corcovado, we were fogged in at the top of Sugar Loaf!

The Clouds Enshrine Sugar Loaf


The Cable Car to the Top of Sugar Loaf


The View of Copacabana Beach from Sugar Loaf
(When the Fog Briefly Parted)


Despite our less than desirable timing, we were able to get a sense as to why Sugar Loaf is such a magical place. Only, we'll have to come back another time to find out! My recommendation to you is to visit Sugar Loaf on your own; you do not need an organized tour to see this site.

Despite the Weather, Happy Tourists




My Best Photo from Sugar Loaf*


*This is what it should really look like. This is actually a photo of the picture on the side of the cable car station.

How the Other Half Lives

Most people who come to Rio de Janeiro want to visit the top tourist sites: Corcovado, Sugar Loaf Mountain, Copacabana and Ipanema beaches. While you should definitely see those places, to truly understand and appreciate the Brazilian culture you need to arrange for a visit to a favela. A favela is a Brazilian shanty town where irregular self-constructed houses are (typically) unlicensed and illegally occupied. The land that these favelas are built on are usually owned by a third party or the government. The residences are built ad hoc on hillsides, with narrow stairways and sidewalks connecting the residences. Often, basic amenities like electicity, sanitation, and running water are difficult to come by or illegally procured. And unfortunately, gang warfare and drug-related crime runs rampant in favelas. Today, there are over 950 favela communities existing within the city of Rio, comprising about one-fifth of the city's total population of 6 million.

Favela Rocinha - Rio's Largest Slum


So you are probably thinking: why in the world would I want to visit a favela? And in fact, your question is a very good one. Many people argue that this type of "tourism" is wrong, it's voyeuristic, or it supports the local favela drug lords. I would argue (on the other hand) that with some careful research and a reputable tour provider, by visiting a favela you will experience the true Rio de Janeiro. You will see the Cariocas who samba down the street during Carnival in bright costumes. You will see the kids who will end up becoming some of Brazil's top soccer players. You will see everyday people here, shopping for food, working out at the gym, going to school. You will see the future of Brazil here. If Brazil is to become (as experts expect) the 5th largest economy in the world by the end of the next decade, the way of life for those living in these favelas will need to change dramatically. And a visit to a favela can provide you with a glimmer of hope that this is possible.

Favela Rocinha - Up Close


There are a few reputable favela tour companies in Rio. Our choice was to go with the pioneer of favela tourism, Marcelo Armstrong. His company, Favela Tour, has been taking small groups (of no more than 12) to favelas since 1992. Our illuminating half-day tour would take us to two favelas, Rocinha and Vila Canoas.

The View from Rocinha


The Christ Redeemer Statue Overlooks the Favela


The first favela we visited was Rocinha, the largest favela in Brazil with a population estimated to be about 100,000. Click here to see an incredible satellite view of Rocinha, courtesy of Google maps. Built on a steep hilliside just one kilometer from the beach, Rocinha has some of the most amazing views of Rio de Janeiro and the Christ Redeemer statue. Our guide provides us with a detailed explanation of the architecture and social infrastructure found in the favela. At our first stop, he introduces us to a handful of local artisans who are selling their wares, mainly crafts, jewelery and paintings.

William, the Local Rocinha Artist, and Me





At our second stop, we are awarded with a panoramic view of the favela. Here we learn that compared to other favelas, Rocinha has a better developed infrastructure system. This fact is evident to us as we later drive down "Estrada da Gávea" (a former F1 race track) through the shanty town's main business district and see the various stores, banks, and services available to the residents. (The local McDonald's franchise, however, has since closed.) A short stroll through the area reveals a bustling city, just like any other, albeit much poorer.

A Stroll Along Main Street, Rocinha








From here we reboarded our van and drove through the neighborhood located next to Rocinha, which is one of the wealthiest in all of Rio. We witness wealth and poverty literally living side by side. Our next stop is the favela of Vila Canoas, which is much smaller than Rocinha.

Vila Canoas Welcome Sign


Favela Vila Canoas


Our first stop in Vila Canoas is the Para Ti community school, which is financed in part (almost 90%!) from proceeds from the Favela Tour. We have brought some school supplies to share with the kids, who all seem grateful.

The Para Ti Community School in Vila Canoas

Following the school visit, we purchased some light refreshments from a local "buteco" and then had a chance to walk around some of the narrow sidewalks and alleys of Vila Canoas.

A Local "Buteco"

This favela tour has been most illuminating. We were expecting to see unhappy people living in deplorable, unsanitary conditions, but instead were pleasantly surprised to see the favela community residents happy and hopeful. Although we never felt threatened for our safety while on the tour, our excellent tour guide Alfredo is quick to remind us that we should not visit other favelas without a guide due to safety concerns. Prior to our visit, my parents were hesitant about going on the favela tour. However, after completing the tour, we all agreed that this was one of the best experiences we had in Rio de Janeiro.

Around the Narrow Alleys of Vila Canoas