Across the Andes

When I was planning our trip to South America, I knew that one of our destinations was going to be Mendoza. To fly to and from Mendoza from the United States, you either have to go through Buenos Aires, Argentina or Santiago, Chile. Since we had already visited Buenos Aires on our trip itinerary, we decided that we leave Mendoza via Santiago.

Andesmar Bus


Originally we had planned to take the quick 45 minute flight from Mendoza to Santiago. Upon further research we quickly realized that the journey by bus (which would take about 7 hours) would offer us a chance to see the amazing Andes mountains. More importantly, the price differential between the cost of a one-way flight (US$335) and the bus (US$20) was also a significant factor in our decision making. We also discovered that by going through customs in Chile via land crossing (as opposed to the International airport in Santiago), we wouldn't have to pay the $130 reciprocity fee.

So, prior to our trip, we booked seats on Tramat-Andesmar, one of the many bus companies that makes the daily crossings along the RN-7, the Alta Montaña Route. Our seats were on the second level of the bus, in the front row (the most coveted seats), so that we would have an unobstructed view of the magnificent mountain scenery.

Destination: Santiago de Chile


The morning of our departure (7:30 a.m.), the sky was clear and cloud-free. Driving down the highway, we had views of the mountains in the distance.

Snow-Capped Peaks

The Morning Rush Hour

For the first hour or so, we continued to climb up towards the mountains. The rising sun reflected off of the snow-capped peaks. Low clouds drifted in the valleys below.

The Mountains Await

On the Alta Montaña Route


Clouds in the Valley


As we begin to climb higher, we get a glimpse of a rare lake, filled with bright blue water. The vegetation becomes more sparse, until the mountains are predominantly rocks and stone.

Lake of the Mountains

The Vegetation Becomes Sparse

As we continue to climb, the road follows the Mendoza River, which is churning with brown water. During summer months, many people will come here to go white-water rafting. As you approach the midway point in the journey to the Chilean border, the bus travels through the town of Upsallata. The valley around this crossroads is a fertile strip of pastures and farms.

A More Barren Landscape

Mountain Tunnel


From Upsallata, the RN-7 follows an ancient Inca trail. The scenery is absolutely stupendous. The mountains consist of strips of colored rock; the reds, greens and yellows are caused by the presence of iron, copper and sulphur. The road slips through a series of tunnels along the way.

Along the Rio Mendoza

Watch Out for Falling Rocks!

A Farm in the Mountains

After passing a few farms, we approach the first of a number of different border checkpoints. The bus driver provides the guards with the manifest and we are quickly on our way.

Checkpoint

After about another hour on the road, you begin to approach the small ski resort of Los Penitentes. It is around these peaks where the film Seven Years in Tibet, starring Brad Pitt, was filmed. On that film, the mountains around this resort served as the stand-in for the Himalayas.

Los Penitentes Ski Resort

After passing through Los Penitentes, you need to watch carefully on the right side of the road, for a glimpse of Cerro Aconcagua. At 6,959 meters (22,841 feet), Aconcagua is the highest peak in both the western and southern hemispheres, and is the highest mountain outside the Himalayas.

Cerro Aconcagua

As we begin to get closer to the Chilean border, we continue to be rewarded with panoramic vistas and river views.

More Mountain Views

Rocks and Water

The last town in Argentina that you will pass through is Las Cuevas. After this settlement, you will pass through a tunnel under the Andes and enter Chile.

Las Cuevas

Another Border Patrol Stop

The Final Tunnel Before Chile

Bienvenido to Chile

Soon we found ourselves at the customs building for entering Chile. As we disembarked the bus, the cold air was a gentle reminder that we were now at an elevation of almost 11,500 feet. It took us about an hour to go through customs. First you have to "exit" Argentina, and then you have to "enter" Chile. The Chilean border control is extremely strict. You need to make sure that you do not have any fruit that you are transporting across the border. They also insist of taking all of the luggage off the bus. The luggage then goes through a scanner (like the ones found at airports) and some individuals are selected for additional screening. Once complete, the bus company reloads the luggage back on the bus. Please note that you should plan on having some spare change as the Chilean border patrol will insist on tips.

Approached Aduana (Customs)

Within moments of departing customs, the bus will come to one of the most hair-raising parts of the journey. You will quickly descend the mountains through a series of 27 hairpin switchback curves. Of course, there are no guardrails. No wonder many people call this road "The Highway of Death." Being in the front row of the second level of the bus, each turn felt like we were about to fall over the edge of the mountain.

Switchback Turns

Look Out, Below!

Some of the 27 Curves to Come

Black and White and Dizzy

Video of Going Down the Mountain


The valley below on the Chilean side has a bit more vegetation. As we traveled along the round, we could see a flock of mountain goats foraging in the hills.

Goats Galore


What a Wonderful World

As we get closer to Santiago, the capital of Chile, the landscape become greener and full of fruit-bearing trees and vineyards.

Fertile Ground

Finally, after a journey lasting seven hours, we arrive at the Santiago bus terminal at 2:30 p.m. Our trip across the Andes is sure to be one of the highlights of this vacation.

Off-loading Luggage

Marco's Travel Tips: Mendoza

Park Hyatt Mendoza


Lodging

When planning a trip to Mendoza, the first question that you need to answer is do you want to stay in the city or closer to the bodegas, which are located about 20 to 40 minutes drive south of the downtown area. Mendoza boasts a number of luxurious hotels, including the Park Hyatt Mendoza which is centrally located off of Plaza Independencia. The Park Hyatt is located on the site of the famous Plaza Hotel where Perón and Eva stayed soon after they first met. If wine touring is your number one reason for visiting Mendoza, then you may want to consider staying at a bodega hotel closer to the vineyards such as the Finca Adalgisa (see my previous blog entry) or the Cavas Wine Lodge which is located in the countryside near the Mendoza suburb of Luján de Cuyo. Better yet, if you can't decide between city or country, spend a few nights in each location.

The Table is Set at Ruca Malen


Dining

Like all great wine regions of the world, Mendoza is well-known for its many dining options. There are a number of good restaurants located at the bodegas and in the suburbs of Mendoza, close to the wineries. Within the city limits, there is no shortage of restaurant options, including many al fresco dining establishments along the pedestrian thoroughfare of Avenida Sarmiento.

Al Fresco Dining in Mendoza


For our day out in Mendoza, we chose to dine at La Marchigiana, which is rated as the top Italian restaurant in the city. We had some difficulty finding the restaurant since it had relocated a few years ago due to a fire in their previous location. But once we found it, we were treated to a fantastic meal. The lasagne bolognese and the gnocchi were absolutely divine! Our waiter showed us a book that was published to commemorate their 50th anniversary in business; among the many famous people who dined here included Brad Pitt, who ate here often when he was filming Seven Years in Tibet.

La Marchigiana


The Italians Eat Italian Food (Again)


Ummmm!!! Lasagne!


Shopping

Another reason to spend some time in downtown Mendoza is to take advantage of some of the great shopping the city has to offer. There are shops of all types, selling clothing, leather, shoes, perfumes, and other souvenirs.

Stained-Glass Skylight in Shopping Gallery

One area you should also visit is the Mercardo Central. Since 1883, this has been Mendoza's main market, selling meats, fish, fruits, vegetables, and spices.

Mercardo Central

Fresh Spices

Lunch, Anyone?

Rows and Rows of Dried Beans

That Famous Argentine Beef

Things to Do

To visit Mendoza and not take a wine tour would be a crime. While there are more than 1,000 wineries in Mendoza, the best range of fine wine establishments is found around Luján de Cuyo, some 20 minutes south of the city. The vast majority of these bodegas require pre-booking, and because road signs are virtually nonexistent, it is highly recommended that you arrange for private transport as well. There is an ever-growing list of bodegas that are geared towards wine tourism. A good resource for finding out more about which wineries to visit is to pick up a free copy of Wine Republic or to visit their website prior to your trip. If you are really short on time and can't get out to the bodegas, then you must plan to visit The Vines of Mendoza located just off of Plaza Independencia. At this well-stocked wine bar, you can taste many wines produced at different wineries. Better yet, you can buy wine here and have it shipped back home.

Grape Leaf


Another popular day trip is to take an Andes Tour. The road to Chile is absolutely stunning...stay tuned, I'll tell you more about that in my next blog entry. Mendoza is also a great destination for those who like adventure sports, whether it is mountain trekking, biking, horseback riding, paragliding or whitewater rafting. The combination of options makes Mendoza a fun and relaxing tourist destination.

The Cleanest City in Argentina

Mendoza Skyline


Earlier in the trip when we were traveling in Iguazú Falls and Buenos Aires, anytime we told the locals we met that we were also going to be visiting Mendoza, we would get favorable replies. Everyone we met said, "Oh, Mendoza is such a beautiful city" and "It's such a clean city; you're going to love visiting Mendoza." The Argentines are very proud of Mendoza. After spending a day in downtown Mendoza, I can rightfully claim that the Argentines are correct.


Mendoza's microcentro was rebuilt in the late 19th century after a large earthquake. The avenues were deliberately made wide to allow for easy evacuation should another earthquake hit the city. The streets are lined with sycamore trees and the city features a number of picturesque squares as well as one of the largest urban parks in the world. The center of Mendoza is the four-block wide Plaza Independencia. Among the magnolia and sycamore trees you will find a few museums and outdoor plazas for summer concerts and films. Within a short walk of the Plaza, near its corners, lies four orbital squares: plazas Chile, San Martín, España, and Italia. We visited three of the plazas, each with its own distinctive features.

Plaza San Martín


Plaza San Martín is northeast of Plaza Independencia. This square is dominated by an early 20th century statue of General San Martín on a horse, looking towards the Andes, which he crossed with his army to defeat the Spanish.

Statue of General San Martín


Plaza Italia is located southwest of Plaza Independencia. It is named for the Italian community that built a few monuments to their motherland within the square. The main feature in this plaza is a stone and bronze monument of General La Patria, flanked by an Indian and a Roman philosopher. A frieze running around the monument shows scenes of Italians building, ploughing and harvesting.

Plaza Italia

General La Patria with an Indian and Roman Philosopher

In the center of Plaza Italia is a low ceramic-walled fountain. Each of the tiles is of a different design; however, they are all done using the traditional colors and designs of Italian majolica.

Plaza Italia Majolica Tiles

The third plaza we visited was the Plaza España, which is located southeast of Plaza Independencia. Plaza España is the most beautiful of all of Mendoza's plazas. Its benches are decorated with brightly colored Andalucian ceramic tiles.

Plaza España


Hanging Out in the Plaza

Andalucian Tiles

The predominant feature of this plaza is the monument to the Spanish discovery of South America. This monument is comprised of a number of scenes depicted in ceramic tiles, including Don Quixote and Columbus's discovery of America.

Scene of the Missionaries

The Argentine Symbol in Tilework

Columbus Discovers America

Detail of Tilework

Video of the Monument to the Spanish Discovery of South America


Located about one kilometer west of downtown is the Parque General San Martín. This park is one of the most beautiful parks in Argentina and its large grounds contain a tennis club, soccer stadium, facilities for picnics, jogging routes, gardens, a riding club, a hospital, and a rowing lake among other things. If you take road to the steep hill, you will be rewarded with breathtaking views of Mendoza as well as the Andes.

Views of Mendoza

For most tourists, the primary reason to visit Parque General San Martín is to go to the top of the Cerro de la Gloria (Glory Hill) and see the somewhat imposing 1914 monument to the Army of the Andes, the Monumento Ejército Libertador. This monument is a rather curious sculpture. At the top of the monument, cast entirely in bronze, is a buxom, winged Liberty, waving broken chains and leading General San Martín and his victorious troops across the Andes. There are also bronze friezes depicting other scenes of the revolution across the base of the monument.

Monumento Ejército Libertador

Liberty Leading General San Martín

Bronze Frieze

Nearby Cerro de la Gloria is the outdoor amphitheatre where the finale of the Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia (The Grape Harvest Festival) is staged. If you happen to find yourself in Mendoza during the harvest, you will want to make sure you attend this world renowned festival.

Amphitheatre

The main entrance to the Parque General San Martín is through a magnificent bronze and wrought-iron gate, topped with a condor.

Main Entrance to Parque General San Martín


In addition to the beautiful parks in Mendoza, the streets are all line with sycamore trees providing a canopy from the hot sun.

Sycamore Lined Street

Although Mendoza does not have an abundance of buildings of architectural interest, some of t he more interesting buildings include the Teatro Independencia, the Colegio Nacional Agustin Alvarez, and the Banco Hipotecario Nacional.

Teatro Independencia

Colegio Nacional Agustin Alvarez

Banco Hipotecario Nacional


The city's only church of note is the Basílica de San Francisco, which is located near the northwest corner of Plaza San Martín. This church, one of the first buildings to be built after the 1861 quake, was designed by a Belgian architect and modeled after the Eglise de la Trinité in Paris.

Basílica de San Francisco

Inside the Basílica