Across the Andes

When I was planning our trip to South America, I knew that one of our destinations was going to be Mendoza. To fly to and from Mendoza from the United States, you either have to go through Buenos Aires, Argentina or Santiago, Chile. Since we had already visited Buenos Aires on our trip itinerary, we decided that we leave Mendoza via Santiago.

Andesmar Bus


Originally we had planned to take the quick 45 minute flight from Mendoza to Santiago. Upon further research we quickly realized that the journey by bus (which would take about 7 hours) would offer us a chance to see the amazing Andes mountains. More importantly, the price differential between the cost of a one-way flight (US$335) and the bus (US$20) was also a significant factor in our decision making. We also discovered that by going through customs in Chile via land crossing (as opposed to the International airport in Santiago), we wouldn't have to pay the $130 reciprocity fee.

So, prior to our trip, we booked seats on Tramat-Andesmar, one of the many bus companies that makes the daily crossings along the RN-7, the Alta Montaña Route. Our seats were on the second level of the bus, in the front row (the most coveted seats), so that we would have an unobstructed view of the magnificent mountain scenery.

Destination: Santiago de Chile


The morning of our departure (7:30 a.m.), the sky was clear and cloud-free. Driving down the highway, we had views of the mountains in the distance.

Snow-Capped Peaks

The Morning Rush Hour

For the first hour or so, we continued to climb up towards the mountains. The rising sun reflected off of the snow-capped peaks. Low clouds drifted in the valleys below.

The Mountains Await

On the Alta Montaña Route


Clouds in the Valley


As we begin to climb higher, we get a glimpse of a rare lake, filled with bright blue water. The vegetation becomes more sparse, until the mountains are predominantly rocks and stone.

Lake of the Mountains

The Vegetation Becomes Sparse

As we continue to climb, the road follows the Mendoza River, which is churning with brown water. During summer months, many people will come here to go white-water rafting. As you approach the midway point in the journey to the Chilean border, the bus travels through the town of Upsallata. The valley around this crossroads is a fertile strip of pastures and farms.

A More Barren Landscape

Mountain Tunnel


From Upsallata, the RN-7 follows an ancient Inca trail. The scenery is absolutely stupendous. The mountains consist of strips of colored rock; the reds, greens and yellows are caused by the presence of iron, copper and sulphur. The road slips through a series of tunnels along the way.

Along the Rio Mendoza

Watch Out for Falling Rocks!

A Farm in the Mountains

After passing a few farms, we approach the first of a number of different border checkpoints. The bus driver provides the guards with the manifest and we are quickly on our way.

Checkpoint

After about another hour on the road, you begin to approach the small ski resort of Los Penitentes. It is around these peaks where the film Seven Years in Tibet, starring Brad Pitt, was filmed. On that film, the mountains around this resort served as the stand-in for the Himalayas.

Los Penitentes Ski Resort

After passing through Los Penitentes, you need to watch carefully on the right side of the road, for a glimpse of Cerro Aconcagua. At 6,959 meters (22,841 feet), Aconcagua is the highest peak in both the western and southern hemispheres, and is the highest mountain outside the Himalayas.

Cerro Aconcagua

As we begin to get closer to the Chilean border, we continue to be rewarded with panoramic vistas and river views.

More Mountain Views

Rocks and Water

The last town in Argentina that you will pass through is Las Cuevas. After this settlement, you will pass through a tunnel under the Andes and enter Chile.

Las Cuevas

Another Border Patrol Stop

The Final Tunnel Before Chile

Bienvenido to Chile

Soon we found ourselves at the customs building for entering Chile. As we disembarked the bus, the cold air was a gentle reminder that we were now at an elevation of almost 11,500 feet. It took us about an hour to go through customs. First you have to "exit" Argentina, and then you have to "enter" Chile. The Chilean border control is extremely strict. You need to make sure that you do not have any fruit that you are transporting across the border. They also insist of taking all of the luggage off the bus. The luggage then goes through a scanner (like the ones found at airports) and some individuals are selected for additional screening. Once complete, the bus company reloads the luggage back on the bus. Please note that you should plan on having some spare change as the Chilean border patrol will insist on tips.

Approached Aduana (Customs)

Within moments of departing customs, the bus will come to one of the most hair-raising parts of the journey. You will quickly descend the mountains through a series of 27 hairpin switchback curves. Of course, there are no guardrails. No wonder many people call this road "The Highway of Death." Being in the front row of the second level of the bus, each turn felt like we were about to fall over the edge of the mountain.

Switchback Turns

Look Out, Below!

Some of the 27 Curves to Come

Black and White and Dizzy

Video of Going Down the Mountain


The valley below on the Chilean side has a bit more vegetation. As we traveled along the round, we could see a flock of mountain goats foraging in the hills.

Goats Galore


What a Wonderful World

As we get closer to Santiago, the capital of Chile, the landscape become greener and full of fruit-bearing trees and vineyards.

Fertile Ground

Finally, after a journey lasting seven hours, we arrive at the Santiago bus terminal at 2:30 p.m. Our trip across the Andes is sure to be one of the highlights of this vacation.

Off-loading Luggage