Friday, November 27, 2009

Coastal Chile - Part 2: Valparaíso

The rest of the afternoon on our day excursion to the Chilean coast was spent in the remarkable city of Valparaíso, or "Valpo" for short. Nicknamed “The Jewel of the Pacific”, Valparaíso was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003 because of its historical importance, natural beauty, and unique architecture. Built upon some 43 steep hillsides overlooking the Pacific Ocean, Valparaíso boasts a labyrinth of streets and cobblestone alleyways, embodying a rich architectural and cultural legacy. Although Santiago is Chile's official capital, Valpo is home to the National Congress.

National Congress


Valparaíso is still a vital working port, moving thousands of containers annually. In addition to exporting wine, copper and fruit, the port is home to naval battleships and hosts visits by numerous cruise ships.

The Port of Valparaíso


Naval Battleships in the Bay


Our first stop in Valpo was to visit La Sebastiana, the home of Pablo Neruda. Please be sure to see my separate blog entry for photos of this unique house. When visiting La Sebastiana, the first thing that you will notice is the amazing views over the entire city. No wonder Neruda was such a prolific poet!

View of the Catherdral


Valpo View


Another Amazing View!


Cala Lily in Valpo


After an hour-long self-guided visit at the Neruda home, we made our way to the Cerro Concepción neighborhood of Valparaíso. This hilltop residential quarter is a rambling maze of steep streets and small alleys, lined with brightly painted homes. There are also a growing number of hostels and inns, bars, and restaurants in this quarter.

Bygone Balconies


Old Quarters in Cerro Concepción


While in Cerro Concepción we took a stroll along the Paseo Atkinson, an esplanade affording great views over the city and lined with tidy, colorful houses with tiny English gardens. A number of these homes have been converted to bed and breakfasts.

Along the Paseo Atkinson


Patricia and My Mother Enjoy the Valpo View


A Perfect Pair of Flowers


Colorfully Painted Row Houses Along the Paseo Atkinson


Our next stop, was to visit the nearby neighborhood of Cerro Alegre. Here we took another stroll; this time, along the Paseo Yugoslavo, one of the most attractive and peaceful parts of Valpo. The most notable structure along the Paseo Yugoslavo is the Palacio Baburizza, an extravagant four-story mansion that is now home to the scarcely visited Museum of Fine Arts.

Cerro Alegre

Palacio Baburizza


As previously mentioned, Valparaíso is built on a series of steep hills. The city once boasted 29 ascensores; there are currently 15 old and nostalgic funicular lifts, built over 100 years ago that are still transporting people up and down the hills today. From the Paseo Yugoslavo we could see the Ascensor Artillería, which was built in 1893 to transport cadets to the naval school at the top of the hill.

Ascensor Artillería


Our guide Patricia had planned that we would take the Ascenso El Peral down the hillside to the Plaza Sotomayor, but unfortunately the lift was closed. Instead, we opted to walk down the steep path to the square below. Along the way, we were rewarded with a chance to see some of the many public artistic murals that grace the old buildings. As you can imagine, these scenes provided some great photo opportunities. Here are some of my favorite shots.

"Valpo Man"


The Little Prince


Harbor Map


The Fly


The Green Door


Plaza Sotomayor is the city center of Valparaíso. The square has a mixture of old buildings and new structures. The most notable building is the Wedgewood-blue Armada de Chile, the headquarters of the Commander in Chief of the Navy.

Armada de Chile




In the middle of the plaza is the Monument to the Heroes of the Battle of Iquique, inaugurated on May 21, 1886. On the crypt lies the remains of Captain Arturo Prat and other heroes who fought in the Pacific War (1879-1883).

Monument to the Heroes of the Battle of Iquique


During our visit, also located in the middle of Plaza Sotomayor was an outdoor performance stage for Valpo's Container Theater Festival. Unfortunately, we were nearing the end of our visit to Valparaíso, so we weren't able to stay and watch much of the rehearsal performance taking place. I think I have just found a good reason to return to this historic city!

Festival Poster


Container Festival Stage


Performers in Rehearsal


Hanging Down Around the Container

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