How the Other Half Lives

Most people who come to Rio de Janeiro want to visit the top tourist sites: Corcovado, Sugar Loaf Mountain, Copacabana and Ipanema beaches. While you should definitely see those places, to truly understand and appreciate the Brazilian culture you need to arrange for a visit to a favela. A favela is a Brazilian shanty town where irregular self-constructed houses are (typically) unlicensed and illegally occupied. The land that these favelas are built on are usually owned by a third party or the government. The residences are built ad hoc on hillsides, with narrow stairways and sidewalks connecting the residences. Often, basic amenities like electicity, sanitation, and running water are difficult to come by or illegally procured. And unfortunately, gang warfare and drug-related crime runs rampant in favelas. Today, there are over 950 favela communities existing within the city of Rio, comprising about one-fifth of the city's total population of 6 million.

Favela Rocinha - Rio's Largest Slum


So you are probably thinking: why in the world would I want to visit a favela? And in fact, your question is a very good one. Many people argue that this type of "tourism" is wrong, it's voyeuristic, or it supports the local favela drug lords. I would argue (on the other hand) that with some careful research and a reputable tour provider, by visiting a favela you will experience the true Rio de Janeiro. You will see the Cariocas who samba down the street during Carnival in bright costumes. You will see the kids who will end up becoming some of Brazil's top soccer players. You will see everyday people here, shopping for food, working out at the gym, going to school. You will see the future of Brazil here. If Brazil is to become (as experts expect) the 5th largest economy in the world by the end of the next decade, the way of life for those living in these favelas will need to change dramatically. And a visit to a favela can provide you with a glimmer of hope that this is possible.

Favela Rocinha - Up Close


There are a few reputable favela tour companies in Rio. Our choice was to go with the pioneer of favela tourism, Marcelo Armstrong. His company, Favela Tour, has been taking small groups (of no more than 12) to favelas since 1992. Our illuminating half-day tour would take us to two favelas, Rocinha and Vila Canoas.

The View from Rocinha


The Christ Redeemer Statue Overlooks the Favela


The first favela we visited was Rocinha, the largest favela in Brazil with a population estimated to be about 100,000. Click here to see an incredible satellite view of Rocinha, courtesy of Google maps. Built on a steep hilliside just one kilometer from the beach, Rocinha has some of the most amazing views of Rio de Janeiro and the Christ Redeemer statue. Our guide provides us with a detailed explanation of the architecture and social infrastructure found in the favela. At our first stop, he introduces us to a handful of local artisans who are selling their wares, mainly crafts, jewelery and paintings.

William, the Local Rocinha Artist, and Me





At our second stop, we are awarded with a panoramic view of the favela. Here we learn that compared to other favelas, Rocinha has a better developed infrastructure system. This fact is evident to us as we later drive down "Estrada da Gávea" (a former F1 race track) through the shanty town's main business district and see the various stores, banks, and services available to the residents. (The local McDonald's franchise, however, has since closed.) A short stroll through the area reveals a bustling city, just like any other, albeit much poorer.

A Stroll Along Main Street, Rocinha








From here we reboarded our van and drove through the neighborhood located next to Rocinha, which is one of the wealthiest in all of Rio. We witness wealth and poverty literally living side by side. Our next stop is the favela of Vila Canoas, which is much smaller than Rocinha.

Vila Canoas Welcome Sign


Favela Vila Canoas


Our first stop in Vila Canoas is the Para Ti community school, which is financed in part (almost 90%!) from proceeds from the Favela Tour. We have brought some school supplies to share with the kids, who all seem grateful.

The Para Ti Community School in Vila Canoas

Following the school visit, we purchased some light refreshments from a local "buteco" and then had a chance to walk around some of the narrow sidewalks and alleys of Vila Canoas.

A Local "Buteco"

This favela tour has been most illuminating. We were expecting to see unhappy people living in deplorable, unsanitary conditions, but instead were pleasantly surprised to see the favela community residents happy and hopeful. Although we never felt threatened for our safety while on the tour, our excellent tour guide Alfredo is quick to remind us that we should not visit other favelas without a guide due to safety concerns. Prior to our visit, my parents were hesitant about going on the favela tour. However, after completing the tour, we all agreed that this was one of the best experiences we had in Rio de Janeiro.

Around the Narrow Alleys of Vila Canoas